Silhouette of Istanbul from the Bosphorus |
Ever since I watched the series Rise of Empires:Ottoman on Netflix amazed at how Mehmed II, popularly known as Mehmed the Conqueror, captured erstwhile Constantinople from Constantinople XI in 1453 portraying the sheer intelligence & thorough dedication of Mehmed II, I became fascinated by the whole idea of Turkey and included it in my bucket list since 2020. As is the golden rule for any international or domestic travel, it is advised to buy flight tickets minimum 3 months before the final travel date so I started planning from end of February (I was still late). I wanted to avoid the rush & crowd of tourists during summer time, which starts from end of May in Turkey and all the prices - hot air balloon rides, AirBnB, hotels become double or triple of what the prices actually are in winter season. But I also had to keep in mind to avoid the holy festival of Ramadan which ended on 21st April 2023, so I bought the tickets planning to reach Istanbul on 22nd April, i.e. the day of Eid.
Bosphorus Strait & Ayasofya Camii in the background |
Visa procedure for Indians:
Indian citizens can avail e-Visa from https://www.evisa.gov.tr/tr/ or paper Visa from https://www.vfsglobal.com/turkey/india/Tourist.html for Turkey as Turkey does not come under European Union hence even if one has Schengen visa, one still has to get Turkish Visa. The following documents are required to obtain a Turkish visa if one doesn't have US, UK, Ireland resident permit/visa or Schengen visa-
- Onwards & return confirmed flight tickets
- Confirmed hotel bookings
- Leave approval application from your organization where you are currently working
- 3 months bank statement
- Address proof (both permanent & present)
- 3 months payslips from current organization
- Office address document
The visa cost approx. ₹ 18400 if one doesn't have US, UK, Ireland resident permit/visa or Schengen visa but the cost of e-Visa automatically comes down to $44.5 if one has the above visas. But it is mandatory to carry the US/UK/Ireland residence permits and/or Schengen visa during travel as they check it at immigration in Turkey.
I booked flight tickets from Skyscanner to get the best deals (N.B - not promoting Skyscanner but writing this after personal experience). It cost around ₹ 62100 on Turkish Airlines for the flight to Istanbul, which left Bangalore at 22:45 hours IST with a 6 hour layover at Mumbai Int'l airport, the flight from Mumbai was at 06:35 hours IST which arrived at İstanbul Havalimanı at 10:50 hours Istanbul time. This flight was of the shortest duration. The flight from Bangalore to Mumbai was Indigo (unfortunately) while that from Mumbai to Istanbul was Turkish Airlines (fortunately).
After reaching Istanbul & clearing the immigration (the immigration officer didn't even see my e-Visa, she just asked for my B1/B2 US visa & allowed me to enter Turkey, although the officer/s may want to see your e-Visa when you are flying out of the country), one can go to the main Istanbul city via-
- Airport bus viz HAVIST buses depending on where one's accommodation is located
- Taxi (Taksi in Turkish) but it took 40 Euros or approx 800 TL for us (our AirBnB was located right beside Sirkeci Tren Garı)
- we arrived on the day of Eid
- the streets (rather lanes) of historical city centre of Istanbul as so narrow that 2 medium sized cars cannot go side by side. All are single lanes.
Our AirBnB |
Alamdar Cd. |
One has to buy Istanbulkart because there is no option of buying separate tickets (unlike in Thailand where one can by separate tickets instead of pre-loading a bulk amount of money in the card) which is a very uncomfortable option for tourists & travelers, though the card can be topped up by cash and can be used for buses, trains, trams, metros. There are a number of options for Istanbul Kart-
- 1-3-5-7-15 days Istanbulkart
- Unlimited Istanbulkart
Currency:
- Ziraat Bankası
- Halkbank
- ING
P. S. - Turkish people, be it in cafes, restaurants, buses, souvenir shops, even taxis, expect tips everywhere even if the service was deplorable. It goes without saying that tipping is an inherent part of European culture but you can refrain from tipping if you are not satisfied with their services. At some places, we even noticed that they took offense at not being provided any tip but we didn't care. The recommended amount of tipping is 10% of the total bill, DO NOT pay more than that.
How to reach the historical city centre of Istanbul:
- take the metro from Metro Taksim İstasyonu to Beyoğlu, take the funicular from Beyoğlu to Karaköy OR take the funicular from Finüküler Taksim İstasyonu to Kabataş, from Karaköy/Kabataş take T1 tram to
- Sultanahmet station for the main attractions - Hagia Sophia, Sultanahmet Camii, Basilica Cistern, Cistern of Theodosius, Obelisk of Theodosius, Serpent Column, German Fountain, Sultanahmet Meydanı, Hacı Beşir Ağa Çeşmesi/Haji Agha Bashir Fountain, Milyon Taşı/The Stone of Million (used in Byzantine period to measure distances)
- Gülhane station for Topkapi Palace & Museum, Gülhane Parkı, Istanbul Archaeological Museum, Bizans surları/Byzantine Walls.
- by taxi/taksi (which will cost more)
The interior dome of Ayasofya |
Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque |
BEWARE: Animal lovers, especially dog & cat lovers - be prepared to get diabetic because you will be overloaded with the cuteness & friendliness of the furry friends there.
Blue Mosque/Sultanahmet Camii |
Our next place of interest was Sultanahmet Camii or more famously known as the Blue Mosque which is a few hundred meters from Ayasofya and the entrance is free for all visitors. This is an active mosque which remains open during the following hours:-
- 8:30 to 12:15 hours (Saturday to Thursday)
- 14:00 to 16:45 hours (Saturday to Thursday)
- 17:45 to 18:30 hours (Saturday to Thursday)
- opens from 14:30 hours ONLY on Fridays.
Interior of Sultanahmet Camii |
Blue Mosque/Sultanahmet Camii |
The mosque remains closed to the visitors other than the hours mentioned above for congregational prayers. We arrived here at around 1.30 pm, so we had to wait in the queue until the afternoon prayers were completed. The Blue Mosque is the only one with 6 minarets in Istanbul and is one of the most impressive architectural monuments in the world. It was declared in the UNESCO World Heritage Site list in 1985. It took us around 1 hours to completely tour the interior of Sultanahmet Camii as most of the sections were not open to the visitors.
St. Euphemia's Martyrion at Sultanahmet Sq. |
Örme Dikilitaş, Serpent Column (Yılanlı Sütun), Obelisk of Theodosius (Theodosius Dikilitaşı), German Fountain (Alman Çeşmesi), Sultanahmet Park (Sultan Ahmet Parkı) - all are located within Sultanahmet Square (Sultanahmet Meydanı) which is a few hundred meters from both Hagia Sophia & Sultanahmet Mosque. These are all free attractions (no entrance fee) and all can be covered on foot, so are Sphendone Remains (Hipodrom Kalıntıları) and Rüstem Paşa Çeşmesi.
Within Topkapi Palace grounds |
Entrance to Topkapi Palace & Museum |
- 9:00 to 18:00 hours
- Closed on Tuesdays
- Drinking water is NOT freely available in Turkey - be it in restaurants or cafes. Water has to be bought.
- It is recommended to buy drinking water bottles of 2L or 5L from supermarkets/grocery superstore as there is no concept of MRP in Turkey and the local shops ALWAYS charge more than the designated price of the bottle varying from 10-15 TL for 1L whereas the cost in supermarkets is 8TL for 1L water bottle.
- Passengers are NOT allowed to carry any kind or quantity of liquids in hand luggage, even if it is a 50ml or 100ml water bottle when flying domestically from Istanbul Havalimani (the security personnel threw away my 100 ml water bottle)
- One can cover the attractions in Sultanahmet Square & Bosphorus Cruise in one day comfortably by 18:00 hours. Basilica Cistern can also be done on the same day IF & ONLY IF one can stand at the queue for Basilica Cistern from 8.30 am because the cistern opens sharp at 9.00 am. One can buy onlines tickets beforehand to skip the queue but it'll cost around 27-30 Euros while the queued ticket costs 300 TL or ~14-15 Euro per person - you see almost half than that of online ticket.
- After seeing the attractions above, one can experience the Bosphorus Cruise by 20:00 hours and call it a day by keeping Galata Kulesi/Galata Tower in the end which closes at 23:00 hours (opens at 08:30 hours). The ticket counter closes at 22:00 hours. Entry fee is 350 TL/person.
We returned to Istanbul after 8 days peppy trip from European Turkey to Asian Turkey comprising of Cappadocia - the moon land, Pamukkale, Fethiye - a small Mediterranean town with the mesmerizing Ölüdeniz beach, and Izmir - a glittering hilly city by the Aegean Sea.
Our return flight arrived at Sabiha Gökçen International Airport and the most economic route to reach Istanbul old city centre is-
- Board Metro train from Sabiha Gökçen International Airport terminal till Ayrılık Çeşmesi metro station.
- From Ayrılık Çeşmesi metro station, board the Marmaray train till Marmaray Sirkeci. From Marmaray Sirkeci one board the tram or bus or even taxi to the relevant hotel/AirBnB/hostel (we boarded T1 tram from Sırkecı till Sultanahmet tram station as our AirBnB was located in Sultanahmet area.
I recommend Sah Apart Hotel for our last 3 days stay in Istanbul. The owner Necati is a genuinely helpful person, so was his son. Unfortunately, most of the hotels/accommodations in old city of Istanbul don't have elevator/lift in the buildings. It becomes quite difficult to carry the luggage from the ground floor to the higher floors, although the buildings are usually 3 or 4 storeyed. Sah Apart Hotel is located in the north-west direction of Sultanahmet Camii which is ONLY 3 minutes by foot from our AirBnB. Necati also has a shop selling impressive & intricately designed vintage Turkish carpets, kilims, antiques & textiles. When we arrived the hotel, I observed Necati's son weaving or repairing a Turkish carpet 😀. He helped us in carrying our heavy luggage to the 2nd floor to our room. Necati's place is quite spacious, the room is sunny, well insulated with room heater, comfortable beds, well set up kitchen.
Ceiling of Grand Bazaar |
Without much ado & time to waste, we headed straight towards the Grand Bazaar or Kapalı Çarşı - a 15th century historic sprawing mesh of indoor market street shops hawking jewelries, precious stones, crystals, leather products, souvenirs, Turkish delights, furnitures, carpets, clothes, silk apparels, gifts and so much more. It is also considered as one of the 1st shopping malls of the world and is located within the "walled city" of Constantinople. The Grand Bazaar Istanbul prices are relatively good value, but it is imperative for one to bargain, NEVER EVER accept the first price, ALWAYS start at 50% off and then work with the seller for the final price. I'm sure you won't be disappointed 😊 I bought a pure leather jacket which the seller quoted 3500 TL as the starting price. How many of you can guess at which I finally bought it? 😉😉
How to reach the Grand Bazaar:
- From Taksim Square -
- take the metro from Metro Taksim İstasyonu to Beyoğlu, then take the funicular from Beyoğlu to Karaköy OR take the funicular from Finüküler Taksim İstasyonu to Kabataş, from Karaköy/Kabataş take T1 tram to Beyazıt-Kapalıçarşı or Çemberlıtaş (there are multiple entrances & exits to & from the Grand Bazaar)
Grand Bazaar - From old city or Sultanahmet area - 10-15 minutes on foot or take T1 tram from Sultanahmet tram station & get down at the above mentioned Beyazıt-Kapalıçarşı or Çemberlıtaş tram stations.
To be shamefully honest, we didn't get enough time to explore the totality of the Grand Bazaar which also came as a blessing else the total cost of the whole trip would have crossed ₹2.5-3 lakhs or $ 3050-3680 or € 2800-3350 per person.. 😔😕 The Grand Bazaar opens at 08:30 hours and closes by 19:00 hours (FULLY closed on Sundays), so it is totally up to you how much time you want to spend here 😛
Kunefe |
We decided to have "sweet" dinner that day and made our way to Hafiz Mustafa 1864 - the oldest & most famous confectionary offering a wide range of Turkish delights. Hadji İsmail Hakkı Bey, the founder, was a candy maker and his son Hafiz Mustafa was the first to have found and manufactured the salty pastry called pogaca, who was also instrumental in promoting Turkish products to the world and prove high brand recognition.Borek
We immersed ourselves in the world of kunafe, borek, rice pudding,various types of baklava. I am sure to acquire diabetes after that particular dinner 😅😅 This particular Hafiz Mustafa 1864 outlet is the oldest & remains open 24x7.
Arches of the cistern |
1st look of the Basilica Cistern |
One must also NOT miss the heads of Medusa being used at the bottom of the pillar and a particular tear drop column.
Medusa's head |
Visiting hours & ticket price of Yerebatan Sarnıcı-
- 09:00 to 19:00 hours everyday
- 300 TL or ~14-15 Euro per person if waiting in the queue. One can buy online tickets beforehand to skip the queue but it'll cost around 27-30 Euros - you see almost double than that of offline ticket.
If one is further interested in knowing the history of Constantinople, the Byzantine Empire, you are encouraged to visit Şerefiye Sarnıcı/Cistern of Theodosius which is relatively newer (1600 yr old cistern) than Basilica Cistern. There are 2 light & sound shows in Şerefiye Sarnıcı -
- A civilization of water - Istanbul (show of 15 minutes)
- Journey from Past to Present - Şerefiye Sarnıcı
There are quite a number of cisterns in the old historical city of Istanbul, few of them are listed below-
- Basilica Cistern (paid entry)
- Cistern of Theodosius (paid entry)
- Binbirdirek Sarnıcı (paid entry)
- Gülhane Park Cistern (free entry)
- Zeyrek Sarnıcı (free entry)
- Sultanahmet Cami Sarnıcı (free entry)
I enjoyed walking through the cobbled narrow lanes of Istanbul, soaking in the sun as it was chilly that day and made our way to Küçük Ayasofya Camii/Little Hagia Sophia - a 6th century former Greek Orthodox/Byzantine church with Ottoman style interior converted to a mosque during the Ottoman reign.
Little Hagia Sophia |
This monument is a few years older than (almost contemporaries) & certainly not a model for Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque/Aya Sofya Camii (although the present Hagia Sophia is the 3rd building built on the same site).
We hopped into the T1 tram from Sultanahmet & boarded off at Kabataş and walked for approx. 15 mins towards Dolmabahçe Sarayı. The ticket price for foreigners is 450 TL/person including Selamlık + Harem + Painting Museum Ticket & the ticket is valid for 1 week. Isn't it exciting??!! (more details available at Dolmabahçe Sarayı).
Dolmabahçe Sarayı |
It is located on the European bank of Bosphorus & is the largest palace in Turkey where the founding father of the nation Mustafa Kemal Atatürk spent the last days of his life where he breathed his last. Dolmabahçe Sarayı was built on the orders of Abdulmejid I in mid 19th century before which the Sultan lived in Topkapi Palace with his family.
Bosphorus view from Dolmabahçe Sarayı |
Opening & closing hours of Dolmabahçe Sarayı-
- 09:00 to 18:00 hours
- Ticket office closes at 17:30 hours
We missed Istanbul Archaeological Museum on our 1st leg of Istanbul trip, we made sure we don't miss it before finally returning to India. After being mind-blown by Basilica Cistern, we made our way to Istanbul Archaeological Museum/İstanbul Arkeoloji Müzeleri.
Istanbul Archaeological Museum |
Inside Istanbul Archaeological Museum |
Ticket price: 200 TL per person without audio guide, 275 TL/person including audio guide.
We left our hotel at around 15:00 hours and took the tram T1 from Sultanahmet tram station to Yusufpaşa İstasyonu (cost only 4.39 TL per person), walked 5 minutes to Aksaray bus stop. boarded HAVIST airport bus which left from Aksaray bus stop at around 15:25 hours & cost ~ 68 TL/person ONLY for transport to İstanbul Havalimanı. Our return flight was at 19:50 hours yet we reached the airport at around 16:45 hours.
To summarise-
- Basilica Cistern, Istanbul Archaeological Museum & Gülhane Park Cistern can be visited on 1 day. You can also club Little Hagia Sophia AFTER you complete Istanbul Archaeological Museum, if you want.
- Şerefiye Sarnıcı/Cistern of Theodosius, Suleymaniye Mosque & Grand Bazaar (can club Çemberlitaş Sütunu/Column of Theodosius with Grand Bazaar) can be combined in another day (although visit & shows of Cistern of Theodosius totally depend on my readers, but I recommend visiting Basilica Cistern first 😉😉). If you love shopping, then Grand Bazaar needs another whole day (even then you will feel that it would have been better if you had more time)
- Dolmabahçe Sarayı, Taksim Square (Taksim Gezi Parkı), Taksim Camii in one day
- Büyük Mecidiye Camii, cross the Bosphorus from Ortaköy on ferry to Kuzguncuk and visit Beylerbeyi Palace on the Asian Istanbul side. After visiting the palace, if one has time, don't miss fun activities in Nakkaştepe Millet Bahçesi and Zippline Nakkaştepe.
- The above suggestions are made PURELY on my personal experience so that one doesn't have to rush while visiting any of the above places and can commit sufficient time to enjoy, appreciate & soak in the historical beauty of the attractions.
N. B. - please pay attention to the opening & closing hours of all the attractions & you can plan your tour accordingly (we planned Grand Bazaar in the evening after we arrived at Istanbul in the afternoon; Şerefiye Sarnıcı. Little Hagia Sophia & Dolmabahçe Sarayı on one day, Basilica Cistern & Istanbul Archaeological Museum another day which was cut short as we had our departure flight that day)
The immigration officer asked to check my e-Visa (didn't understand why checking the e-Visa when I'm flying out of the country), otherwise the security check in was pretty smooth & hassle free.
Unfortunately, Indigo airlines poured water over my whole alluring experience of Turkey with their-
- aircraft
- facilities available on board
- services on board
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